bodysurfing gansett
eagerly waiting
sandbar below
sets rolling in bunches
which is best? what will take me furthest?
undertow leads you to the pocket under the wave
push off & time the crash
am I on top?
the wave push you off a cliff
feel the frothy water race by your fingertips
come to a gentle stop and up for air
back to earth, not without a smile
back to the break
out to catch the next best
41.4501° N, 71.4495° W